Lupara, time stands still

Time stands still in Lupara

Crowning the thousand-year-old castle ruins are clocks, which tick on. still today. It seems the passage of time which has marched slowly by in this bright and friendly little village.

In 1911 there was a population of over two thousand people, now there are less than five hundred.Like all the hilltop villages in Molise, Lupara too is now sadly in decline, in common with the rest of the region was the lack of work people began to leave to s seek a better life in America, Australia, Canada and South America.

The streets so often empty I have explored them it has given me a real chance to connect with the history which seems to be hidden in the stones themselves.

 

Some houses in the village are extremely elegant, and others a little simpler, many now are empty.
Sadly like so many other places in the region.

There are views from the edge of the village over  the tumbling fields and onwards to the Adriatic sea


Lupara's pride is quite rightly is the castle which has stood with pride surveying the lands which sweep away below it to the river valley.

In common with all the castles in the region, Lupara's inhabitants toiled in the fields and fought for their Lord under the  Feudal system,. 

They battled with Flippo di Bello, the King of France, in 1270, so the village's inhabitants too in long and distant path saw many die under the sword, and in world wars too of course.

 I strode through archways, and along cobbled streets, with flowers still blooming on balconies and balustrades.

                             

Lupara in Molise, there is so much hiding in the heart of this small village.
I look forward to finding out more about the village and it is just on my doorstep will have to go along another day....
Thank you, I was delighted to make your acquaintance

Looking Back

                                        Why Molise?

                    LET'S START AT THE VERY BEGINNING
                                 A VERY GOOD PLACE TO START

These words are from a song from an old 1960s musical.

I have always been a romantic, a heart yearning for adventure. So when I lived in Italy the first time I think I fell in love with the mountains, the clear blue skies, the flowers, the sea and the people.

Yes it was different then. I lived in Varese, near the Lake Maggiore. I had two small children and lived an exciting life on the fringes of the expat community.

My children were fortunate to go to an International school which opened their eyes to the world and made them not just Europeans but CITIZENS of the WORLD. 

Studying languages from five years old they both learnt to speak four languages fluently, which has led them both to very successful careers in teaching and hospitality.

We skied every weekend in the winter, had amazing holidays, had enough money to lead relatively trouble life, and I thought we were happy.







Sadly my marriage came to an end....


After a lot of tears, and I discovered that



I wanted to make it work but, I hated seeing people every day who had known us both, and I wanted to start again.

We packed our bags then moved back to England. 

As a nurse, it was easy to walk into another job.

Of course, it was straightforward, but I did get a chance to discover myself again, and we made it work.

Despite battling with all kinds of hassles along the way including a number of tumultuous relationships, I was able to study as well as having a fascinating and interesting career.

OVER time, I realised I missed 


AND 

The coffee

The skies
The mountains 
The sea 

All these things and more.

I am really not sure, but rather like a niggling pain that would not go away, I decided I wanted to return.

Having just got my second divorce under my belt and embarked on another relationship I decided I was going back.

Hours searching on the internet led me to an estate agency in Vasto, where we began our search.

It took a while.. but eventually, we found it.. 

We...that is my partner T and I

Our little piece of Heaven, here in MOLISE. 
A small very dilapidated farmhouse it sits on the side of a mountain just outside the village of Lucito.

That was in February 2016, and now I am living here, lock, stock and barrel.

AND....................


And we are going to 
 
 and Make it work ...





Follow my blog and I just know you will  
LOVE MOLISE TOO


.

Molise - Nothing ? No everything

MOLISE 

A REGION WHICH YOU MIGHT THINK HAS NOTHING ... BUT IN FACT HAS

EVERYTHING 

This is the first blog in my new series about the TRATTURI
These are an ancient network of shepherds paths which form a network across Southern Italy

 I have set out on a voyage of discovery to visit all the towns and villages which run alongside the TRATTURO which runs from Celano to Foggia.

As I am formulating plans to walk the WHOLE THING in May 2017.
This is the route we plan to take.
https://www.google.com/maps/d/u/0/viewer?mid=1jwGn_SBeRiYXER3HyA897hqEtiI&ll=41.77742751193855%2C14.532195500000057&z=9
You can join us, and to find out more see www.forgetmenotmolise.com

Santa Croce di Magliano 
A TOWN OF SUBSTANCE
with over 2000 inhabitants its main street, still bustles with life throughout the days as it has done for many, many hundreds of years.
The main route from Puglia it was once gated and housed a toll for many years.

FESTIVALS 
Having visited the town earlier in the year for the festival of when it was full of cattle, and horses I could picture it in times past when the transumanza ran across its borders

THE PLAINS OF PUGLIA
It sits on a hill overlooking the plains of Puglia, where on a bright sunny morning like yesterday the view from the central piazza it was absolutely stupendous.
This photo or indeed any I am able to find including my own do not do it justice.

COME AND SEE IT FOR YOURSELF

HISTORY
I was taken on a guided tour of the town by local archaeologist and historian Pasquale Marino. A young man passionate about the history of Molise.

The town's origins can be traced back to 900 AD, although its roots run deeper into the depths of Italy.s complex formation.
 There were orginally four towers and a wall encircling the town. Now only three towers remain, and virtually nothing of the orginal town walls. 

As a richly woven tapestry
there are threads that can be traced to Albanian immigrants, the Normans, rich families of nobility and the Romans.

 Santa Croce's intricately woven roots can be linked more intricately with the plaited cheeses made for the festival Santa Croce di Magliano, on the last Saturday of April to celebrate the Madonna dell' Incorona

STICKS and STONES
Many interesting tales from the town's past remain,  including bloody battles, marauding brigands and phantoms of the towns long dead.

Santa Croce holds more in it's welcoming arms than incredibly beautiful views, an important chapter in the history of Molise.

It houses an impressive art collection of contemporary art, as well as a trail of wall murals scattered around the streets which add colour and intrigue.

As an art lover, I found the murals in Santa Croce fascinating and evocative. Having wandered many times looking at the street art in the city streets of Campobasso, and the village of Civitcampomarino, I was delighted to discover what Santa Croce has to offer those passionate about art and culture.

Street art in Santa Croce was set up as a memorial to local artist and sculptor

Antonio Giordano.

His daughter Mariano now coordinates the project overseeing it, and she is keen to protect its legacy.

ANIMALS IN ABUNDANCE

This unique little town has its feet firmly placed in the rich fertile soil of the lower Molise region
Cattle, pigs sheep and goats are kept to produce milk for delicious cheeses, tasty hams and salamis.

The Transumanza. 



FARM LIFE

The small family farms are all adept at juggling animal husbandry, Cheese making, olive oil, jams, and meat production.

Most are happy to welcome visitors and often  run workshops in local crafts
Santa Croce di Magliano has so much to offer whether your interests lay in history, art, or nature.
If you want to know more or interested in visiting please contact me by phone, FACEBOOK or email

Penny Barron
molisematters@gmail.com
tel UK 0044 7867 419833
Italy 3280445925